||How to Forge
Everything on this page about How
to Forge a Sword is borrowed from the Mediæval
This method of pattern-welding, used as late as the 11th
century, can utilize inferior metal and still result in a strong and resilient
Difficulty Level: Average Time
Required: One month
Case-harden three or four thin rods of malleable wrought
iron in a charcoal fire.
Heat the rods red hot and tightly twist them together to
form the center of the sword.
Fold a long billet of relatively homogenous steel into a
tight V to form the blade edges.
Hammer-weld the V to the center rods in a white-hot fire;
three to six inches of the center should protrude from the blade for the
Shape a fuller (a shallow trench) down the center on either
side of the blade.
Allow to cool completely.
Grind and file the sword so the flat of the blade is smooth
and the edges are keen.
Heat the blade again and quench it to give the steel edge
Weld a crossguard of hard iron to the blade at the point
where the handle protrudes.
Attach a blunt, rounded pommel of soft iron to the end of
Polish well, then use acid to enhance the pattern of the
fuller, if you desire. You may wish to etch your name or an identifying
symbol on the blade just beyond the crossguard.
Decorate the pommel with enamel or carve a design into the
Wrap the handle with leather or wire.
Keep the sword in a scabbard lined with fleece. The lanolin
in the wool will curtail rust and its springiness will keep the weapon
You may wish to name your sword. The sword Beowulf borrowed
was called Destroyer, and of course Arthur's was Excalibur.
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